Out of Office: Notes from the Amalfi Coast
Explore Italy’s Amalfi Coast with our villa experts, Saffo and Margherita, who divulge where to stay, who to meet, and what to eat in Positano and beyond.
How do we get our incredible travel tips? Through these posts. As our experts are out visiting the destinations featured in our portfolio, they share with us the best activities, newest attractions, and their favorite villas, supplying us (and you) with an up-to-date account of the area.
Destination: Positano, Italy
What We Saw: Praiano
On an early morning drive from Positano to Amalfi, we decided to stop in Praiano, a fishing village located between the two towns. Known for its different pace – much slower than neighboring Positano’s – we wanted to explore Praiano’s beautiful corners and off-the-beaten-path atmosphere.
Like all the vertical towns on the coast, Praiano has many steps, a flight of which led us to the whimsical Torre a Mare, a Saracen tower. Here, artist and local celebrity Paolo Sandulli lives and works. Most of Paolo’s paintings and sculptures depict local fishing scenes and beautiful women, and many embellish luxury hotels along the coast. Palazzo Murat in Positano, the Bellevue Syrene in Sorrento, and the prestigious Capri Palace in Anacapri all proudly display Paolo’s unique pieces, as do many villas.
While all of the works in Torre a Mare are nothing shy of enchanting, we couldn’t help falling in love with the “Queens of the Sea” (or “the Signorine” (the misses) as Paolo affectionately calls them). These terra cotta busts of women are topped with wild hair created from dyed sea sponges.
If you’re in the area, don’t miss paying Paolo a visit. He’ll happily share the history of the tower with you and offer insight into his work. And, if there’s anything you’d like, he can ship abroad.
Where We Stayed: Villa Giulia
Perched high above Positano, and yet just a 10-minute walk to the center of town, Villa Giulia is one of our favorite villas on the Amalfi Coast. It offers stunning views from its spacious terrace, as well as clean, comfortable rooms, and – the pièce de résistance – an indoor pool where we plunged after a long day’s work.
For dinner, try Chez Black, a glitzy restaurant facing Marina Grande – the main beach of Positano. Its owner, the handsome Gianfranco, will welcome you with his enchanting smile before you delight over great food and wine (and possibly celebrity sightings)!
Until next time,
Margherita & Saffo
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